Italian luxury fashion brand Prada has acknowledged the Indian origins of its new footwear line after facing controversy in India.
The sandals, presented at Milan Fashion Week last week, featured an open-toe braided design resembling traditional Kolhapuri sandals from Maharashtra and Karnataka.
Prada initially described them simply as “leather footwear” without mentioning their Indian roots, which led to accusations of cultural appropriation.
In response, Prada said it recognises the sandals were inspired by traditional Indian footwear and emphasized its respect for craftsmanship and heritage. The company is reportedly in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture to address the issue.
A trade organisation had earlier criticized Prada for commercialising the design without crediting the artisans who have preserved it for generations. Prada’s head of Corporate Social Responsibility, Lorenzo Bertelli, noted the sandals were still in an early design stage and expressed openness to dialogue with local Indian artisans, planning further meetings.
Kolhapuri sandals, named after the city where they are made, date back to the 12th century. Handcrafted from leather and sometimes dyed naturally, they are sturdy and suited to India’s climate. The Indian government awarded them Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2019, recognizing their regional authenticity.
Local artisans expressed disappointment over Prada’s lack of credit, with some highlighting how the sandals represent the hard work of Kolhapur leather workers and should bear the city’s name.
“These sandals are made with the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be named after Kolhapur. Don’t take advantage of others’ labour,” Prabha Satpute, a Kolhapuri artisan, told BBC Marathi.
The high pricing by Prada also sparked anger, as artisans earn only modest sums for similar handmade products, while global brands profit from Indian cultural heritage.
This incident follows previous controversies involving global brands appropriating Indian traditional products without acknowledgment, such as Gucci describing a sari worn by Bollywood star Alia Bhatt as a gown at the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, and a TikTok trend mislabeling the traditional dupatta as a Scandinavian scarf.
Still, some artisans in Kolhapur felt a sense of pride that their craftsmanship was gaining international recognition.
BBC
