At the cusp of its centennial milestone, the sky is not the limit for Ananda Bhavan – the cosmos is.
“Dare I dream big, I wish to see Ananda Bhavan’s signature masala thosai become the first Indian vegetarian dish to be savoured on the moon,” said third-generation chief executive Viren Ettikan, as he sits at the helm of this culinary spaceship.
The 39-year-old was handed the ropes in 2011, amid rumours of the restaurant’s imminent closure and declining food quality.
As a young CEO with little full-time business experience, Mr Viren was faced with the challenge of rebuilding customer trust while transforming Indian vegetarian cuisine into a “cool” and “trendy” choice for a younger clientele.
While his dreams for Ananda Bhavan and the moon may seem a tad far-fetched, his underlying ambition is to expand the restaurant’s customer base internationally. His vision of masala thosai being served on the moon symbolises the restaurant’s passion for sharing the love of vegetarian cuisine with the world.
Ananda Bhavan opened its doors in 1924, at the pre-war Ellison building on 221 Selegie Road. Founded by Mr Kulanthaivelu Muthusamy, the restaurant became a nexus for the tramway and bus depot workers, and the Indian community at large. It now has five outlets across the island.
The restaurant celebrated its 100th anniversary on July 20, when it also received acknowledgement from the Singapore Book of Records as the oldest Indian vegetarian restaurant in Singapore.
At its Little India outlet at 95 Syed Alwi Road, the eatery hosted more than 100 guests, including patrons, business partners, family members and community leaders.
A specially curated 100-year menu was unveiled in the presence of President Tharman Shanmugaratnam and his wife Jane Ittogi and Minister of State for Trade and Industry and Minister of State for Culture, Community and Youth Alvin Tan.
Ananda Bhavan weathered colonial rule, the Japanese occupation during World War II and the tumultuous merger years. Its enduring legacy is cemented by a steadfast embrace of innovation while demonstrating its commitment to the community.
Service robots, for instance, have been greeting customers at its Syed Alwi outlet for the past three years. The restaurant’s menu too has evolved, with Jain and Indo-Chinese specialties offered alongside its signature South Indian dishes.
During Covid-19, Ananda Bhavan stepped up its community efforts and donated snacks and food to migrant workers. Chef Manikkam Thennarasu recalled preparing almost 100,000 murukkus in 10 days.
“Positive relationships are at the heart of Ananda Bhavan’s service,” said Mr Thennarasu, 54, who has worked at Ananda Bhavan for the past 18 years.
He highlighted the initial “unlearning” for staff that was required inside the restaurant’s kitchen, where the core principles of “no added MSG, no artificial preservatives and no reuse of cooking oil” must be adhered to.
“At Ananda Bhavan, almost every occasion calls for an innovative special menu,” said Mr Thennarasu.
“People usually think non-vegetarian food has the most scope. But in fact, vegetarian cuisine actually has a greater variety and room for creativity. We can play around with it more.”
