The idli (a South Indian steamed rice cake made with urad dal or black gram) was Ms Shanmitha Manoharan’s first introduction to solid foods.
At just six months old, she was fed small pieces of her mother’s homemade idli. However, it was her paternal grandmother’s idli that would lead to the global expansion of her family business – the Murugan Idli Shop (MIS).
What started out as a humble establishment that only served coffee and snacks in Madurai, Tamil Nadu, turned into a hit franchise thanks to the shop’s now-signature soft and fluffy idlis.
Usually eaten for breakfast or as tiffin (a light meal), idlis have a saucer-like shape and an aerated texture that appeals to people of all ages. The steamed rice cakes are also a great source of protein due to the urad dal and are rich in soluble fibre, making it easy to digest.
The key to MIS’s success is consistency, which is achieved through decades of following protocol and strict quality control.
“Each step of the recipe has its own process that we strictly adhere to. From the specific ratio of rice and ulunthu (black gram) to how we blend the ingredients,” Ms Shanmitha said.
The idli batter is left to ferment overnight, which lends the idli a slightly tangy taste and creates beneficial bacteria or probiotics that support gut health and nutrient absorption.
A stainless steel mould or plate with concave divots is then used to steam spoonfuls of the fermented batter to produce the recognisable disc-shaped and (when done right) pillow-soft idlis, ready to serve alongside sambar (vegetable stew) and a multitude of spiced chutneys or condiments.
In 1991, Ms Shanmitha’s father took over the business and added more menu items such as ghee and sakkarai or sweet pongal, vadai (deep-fried savoury donuts) and a Madurai specialty chilled milk-based drink known as jigarthanda.
MIS launched its first Chennai outlet in 2003, and has since established more than 30 stores across India, the United Kingdom (UK) and Australia. The Singapore branch opened in 2007 and was based at 81 Syed Alwi Road next to Mustafa Centre.
It later relocated to a larger unit at 76 Syed Alwi Road in 2018 to accommodate more diners in lieu of the increased demand, with a maximum seating capacity of 80.
Ms Shanmitha has overseen MIS Singapore since 2024 as its administrative director. As the eldest child of the Manoharan family, the 33-year-old was encouraged by her father to step out of her comfort zone and try managing one of the overseas outlets.
Her favourite is the poondu podi idli, where a freshly steamed idli is doused in hot ghee and coated with a finely ground garlic powder. Other iterations include a fiery-red chilli podi for a touch of heat and a deep-green curry leaf podi with herbal undertones.
Another MIS signature is the onion uttappam or savoury pancake, also made with rice and black gram, which is loaded with slices of hand-peeled small onions that are especially imported from Madurai for their pungent yet sweet flavour profile.
