V.K. SANTOSH KUMAR
Ammakase is an Indian interpretation of the Japanese omakase concept, where you place your trust in the chef’s skills to create a personalised meal.
Singapore’s first such restaurant, a 50 seater which opened at One Raffles Place last month, features traditional recipes from India’s coastal states and Sri Lanka.
Passed down the ages by ammas (mothers), the dishes are prepared using modern techniques, with influences from Japan, France, Italy, South Korea and other Asian cuisines.
The menu has been created by noted chef Abhijit Saha, who runs the award-winning restaurants Caperberry and Fava in Bengaluru and was the force behind the Michelin recommended Indian restaurant Saha in Singapore from 2014 to 2017.
“I am a foodie, like shareholder M. Rajaram (from K&L Gates Straits Law),” said Mr J.K. Saravana, a media, advertising and food and beverage entrepreneur who came up with the idea of starting Ammakase with some family members and business partners. “We love fine dining, but found that Indian restaurants in Singapore could not provide what we were craving for. So, we decided to fine-tune the omakase concept and came up with dishes that we like and felt would also be relished by discerning eaters.”
He calls Ammakase a fine dining experience in a concrete jungle.
“It’s a culinary journey,” he said. “Everyone who comes here gets to taste authentic Indian flavours.
“Indian restaurants don’t use duck, but we do. We don’t serve Wagyu beef or Iberico pork, but we have high-value ingredients such as lobsters, caviar and salmon roe. Most of our meats are grown in a farm in Yio Chu Kang.
“Our team makes sure everything is perfect, including the food coming out at the right temperature.”
Ammakase’s pan-seared garam masala duck is a hit. So too the Sri Lankan curried prawns, mussels and clam soup, grilled Pacific rock lobster, tandoori-spiced seabass and venison briyani.
“The food is excllent,” said lawyer Joan Lim-Casanova, who was at Ammakase for lunch with her colleagues. “I don’t like spicy food, so they toned it down for me. The ingredients used have fine flavours.”
Businessman Madhu Gopinath loved the presentation. “We don’t know what will be served. There are a few surprise elements which add to the fun,” he said. “The wine and whisky pairing lifts the quality of the dishes.”
Ammakase has a sommelier and mixologist to offer suggestions.
“The menu for each person is customised and curated separately,” said Mr Saravana. “That’s not an experience you find in Indian restaurants in Singapore. We change the menu every month. So, a lot of effort goes into what we create and serve.”
