At first glance, you couldn’t tell that a new Indian restaurant had just opened at 1 Claymore Drive.
Perhaps it’s because the area of Orchard Towers, a multi-storey complex at the heart of Singapore’s shopping district long known for its seedy underbelly, hasn’t changed too much in its overall appearance.
Most of the clubs and bars that packed this once-bustling nightlife hub had their licences revoked last year – and the closure of these establishments has paved the way for restaurants like Bhoomi, which opened on July 26.
Situated at a unit that was once a karaoke lounge, the upscale two-storey Bhoomi looks the part only once you’ve stepped into it, where the restaurant – with its sand and wood motif, accentuated by wicker baskets hanging from the ceiling – looks nothing like its neighbouring outlets.
One familiar aspect to the place, however, is renowned chef Milind Sovani.
Formerly at the helm of the award-winning kitchens at Rang Mahal and the now-defunct The Song of India, the 60-year-old’s latest venture promises to offer traditional Indian fare that inspired him during his younger years travelling through India.
“Over the last few years, so much of the food you find in newer restaurants is fusion-inspired,” says Chef Milind, who also runs Masalaa Bar in East Coast Road.
“While fusion does allow for a chef to express his personality, it also kills the culture in a way. With Bhoomi (which means “earth”), I wanted to take diners back to the basics of Indian cuisine; to how food is traditionally done.
Highlights from the menu include Lucknawi Kakori Kebab ($29), charcoal-grilled minced lamb kebabs in a Lucknawi spice blend; and Chulhewala Nihari Gosht Curry ($29), lamb cooked on a wood-fired clay stove.
Bhoomi also offers healthier options, with items such as gluten-free seeded amaranth roti ($7) and Kulthachey Kalan ($12), a soup made with horse gram (a type of lentil).
“The items on the menu are from all over India – from Lucknow to Kerala to Kashmir,” said the chef. “These dishes are of different recipes, of course, but made with the same consistency. The origin of each dish is explained in the menu, almost like a bhoomi-pedia.”
