Bak chor mee, wanton mee, carrot cake and you tiao dipped in kopi o kosong – Singaporean comfort food that can be eaten as a snack, for lunch or just when you’re feeling down.
Remember, food has a way of uplifting your mood, depending on the level of satisfaction you derive from it.
Bak chor mee, the humble minced meat noodles, remains one of my go-to dishes when I’m in the mood for everything local. But my introduction to it wasn’t easy.
Bak chor mee? No way! That was my first reaction to a Singaporean colleague’s question way back in November 2006.
It was my first month in Singapore and I was still getting used to Singlish.
Back in Mumbai, the cultural and vibrant melting pot of India, Bak is slang for get lost or scoot. Chor means thief.
Despite my misgivings, I still went along with my colleague Ian Lee to the Tai Hwa Pork Noodle stall at Crawford Lane.
There was an unending queue and while we waited our turn, I asked Ian why this place was so popular.
His reply was simple: “This one shiok lah, brudder.”
My anglicised Indian side began to process this as a shock to the digestive system but being the adventurous type when food is involved, I was game.
Fifteen minutes later, I was staring at a senior gentleman with spectacles who bluntly asked me: “You pork ah?”
I’m large-sized, and have been called many names, but never “Porky”.
Upset, I said: “No pork.”
He followed with: “You halal ah?”
That’s when Ian stepped in and said: “He’s asking if you can eat pork.”
What a relief. “Tell him I can eat everything.”
The stall owner still wasn’t done with his questionnaire and he had one more: “Mee kia? Mee pok?”
This was easy now. I had a handle on the lingo and was prepared to level up with the man.
“Me Indian but eat pork,” I replied.
Pointing to the noodles, which were bunched separately, he asked me again, “Which mee you?”
I wasn’t familiar with Chinese noodles but I knew a few Japanese ones.
The closest that bore a resemblance to me would be udon so that’s what I replied.
A quick conversation between Ian and the stall owner followed, and I didn’t need to know Mandarin or Hokkien to figure that my friend would be handling the order.
For the next few minutes I silently watched with admiration as the man with the chopsticks proceeded to use a bowl like an artist would his canvas.
He started by tossing the noodles in oil and vinegar before adding toppings of minced pork, sliced pork, meatballs, pork liver, wanton (Chinese dumplings) and fried salted fish.
This was dry bak chor mee accompanied by a small serving of soup. While I was still admiring the chef’s craft, his next statement brought me back to my newbie confused state: “Taugay?”
Once again Ian stepped in to inform me that taugay are mung bean sprouts and if I would like a helping on the side.
I sheepishly accepted them on a small plate and off we went to a table which Ian had reserved with his office pass.
The Tai Hwa bak chor mee comes in three portions – small, medium and large. I opted for the medium-sized bowl as the small one does not come with wantons (dumplings) which I love to bits.
Our choice of noodles was mee kia (normal egg noodles). Customers can also opt for mee pok (flat egg noodles) or kway teow (white rice noodles).
I had a little bit of chilli and a generous dose of vinegar added to my bowl.
My first forkful and I was amazed at the layered flavours dancing on my tongue.
The whole mix was fragrant and savoury with a bite from the chilli, a sour yet satisfying kick from the vinegar and an overall umami (the fifth taste) experience.
The perfect springiness of the noodles just added to the delightful culinary experience for me, making it one of the best noodle bowls I had ever eaten.
As an Indian, I was concerned about the minced meat being raw but it was extremely fresh.
And once the dish was fully prepared, it was cooked perfectly with all the condiments and sauce absorbed.
I wasn’t a fan of pork liver but the manner in which the vinegar and chilli turned it into a delicious addition was addictive. Not one of the ingredients in the bowl overpowered the other, only complementing each other.
I have since been to most bak chor mee stalls around Singapore, some which add sole fish as an ingredient too. But I always go back to the first stall that introduced me to this comfort food.
There is something about the Tai Hwa bak chor mee that ticks all the boxes for me, and I’m forever grateful to its owner Tang Chay Seng for his recipe and contribution to the Singaporean cuisine landscape.
I could have gone into much detail about the dish and its ingredients but I’d rather that you discover it for yourself.
Originally located at Hill Street and later Marina Square, the stall is now at Crawford Lane since it’s relocation in 2004.
So if you haven’t tried bak chor mee as yet, don’t wait.
Take the plunge and get drowned in a whirlpool of flavours, like I did.
My only advice is, if you are new to Singapore, let your local pal or colleague do the ordering. You’ll thank me later.
